I love Okanagan Syrah. I think it's the signature red variety of the Valley – and I don't think it's close. It doesn't matter what winery you walk into, the Syrah is always going to be a dependable buy. That, to me, is an indication of a variety that thrives where it's planted.
It's not necessarily that easy, though. This is what I wrote for jancisrobinson.com several years ago:
It is not surprising then that the South Okanagan is beginning to establish a reputation for Rhône varieties, especially Syrah. Not all producers would have it this way. The sustainability of Syrah is a continuing question mark. The variety is slow to become cold-acclimated, leaving it vulnerable to increasingly common November cold snaps. Some producers, such as Quail’s Gate in West Kelowna, benefit from the moderating influence of Lake Okanagan. However, other wineries are replacing upwards of one quarter of their vines every year. Syrah as an emerging signature variety just may not make sense.
It was far from a no-brainer when Nichol first planted Syrah back in 1990. The small block, totalling just 17 rows, is the oldest planting of Syrah in Canada. It's stood the test of time, on own-rooted vines no less, and today produces one of the benchmark Okanagan Syrahs.
-GM
Tasting Note
The winemaking is all about showcasing the fruit from these old vines. Fermented in small open-top fermenters and then basket pressed, it's aged in older 500-litre puncheons and then bottled unfined and unfiltered. It has everything that you want in great Okanagan Syrah. There's bright, vibrant fruit, showing black raspberry and bramble, that's lifted by perfumed violets alongside savoury notes of cured meat and black pepper. Every time you go back to the glass, there's something new.
Food Pairing
Roasted leg of lamb with mustard and rosemary. An impressive family-style meal that couldn't be easier to make.