The hierarchy within a wine appellation is a useful guide but it's far from foolproof. Take Chablis. You have Petit Chablis, Chablis Village, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru, in that order. Grand Cru sites should represent the best of the region. But that's not always the case. Premier Crus like Montée de Tonnerre can perform like a Grand Cru.
Counterintuitively, Grand Cru Chablis can also show the most obvious winemaking, with a big(ger) oak profile. Now, that's not always the case, but it's one of the reasons that I generally gravitate towards Village and Premier Cru wines. The top examples are pure, terroir-driven expressions of Chablis – and often overdeliver for the price.
Just like this Chablis Village from Roland Lavantureux. It's far from an ordinary Chablis Village thanks to vines that average 30 years in age, still grown on the Kimmeridgian limestone soils that typify Chablis. This video from the Domaine, featuring son Arnaud, provides an introduction to their winegrowing philosophy:
So, how do you find those producers that overdeliver from Petit Chablis to Grand Cru? A reliable way is to find importers that you trust. One of the most established is Kermit Lynch, who imports this wine in the US. In BC, it’s imported by Olivier Brands, a new agency led by industry veterans Barry Olivier and Peter Rae.
Tasting Note
The 2018 vintage in Chablis was notoriously hot, but you don't feel that here. It's bright, citrusy, and saline – in short, everything you look for in Chablis. Partially aged in seasoned, neutral barrels, which contribute some roundness to the texture, the focus here is on the pure lemon fruit, which shows zesty freshness and concentration that is above the norm. All on a chalky, mineral backbone that transports you to an ancient seabed.
Food Pairing
Spot prawn risotto with fresh peas