Wines grown on volcanic soils are unique and distinctive. It's arguably the only soil type that really comes through in the finished wine, with a characteristic smoky quality that is identifiable regardless of the region or grape variety.
Volcanic wines have been white hot – pun intended – since John Szabo MS published his excellent book on the topic 7 years ago. That's helped to put the volcanic Canary Islands on the world stage, led by producers like Envinate (who we featured in last September's shipment) as well as Vinatigo.
Since 1990, Juan Jesús Méndez has been the driving force of Viñátigo and the Canary Islands by recovering indigenous grapes on the verge of extinction and mapping the diverse soil types found across the Canaries.
Tasting Note
Listan Negro is a black grape variety unique to these volcanic islands. It produces red wines that are Syrah-like in character, though this rosé speaks more to place than any grape variety. It’s bright and refreshing, with a distinctive volcanic minerality. Expect sappy red berries, fresh herbs, and – yes – smoke. But the smoke-like quality here is related to sulphide compounds – not smoke taint from wildfires – and adds an appealing savoury complexity that enhances the fruit.
Food Pairing
Seafood paella cooked in squid ink