Few wines in Canada are as highly regarded as the Tantalus Old Vines Riesling. It starts with seriously old vines – from a heritage two-acre block that dates to the pioneering days of the BC wine industry in 1978. It’s hard to imagine, but BC wine was far from a sure thing just 45-odd years ago. There were questions over whether European grape varieties like Riesling could even survive in BC.
The proof is, well, in the bottle. This is world-class Riesling – full stop. I remember trying this with Olivier Humbrecht MW of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, one of the leading estates in Alsace, and his immediate reaction was to say, “I need to see where this is grown.”
The answer is East Kelowna, or the new East Kelowna Slopes sub-GI to be exact. It's arguably the top area for Riesling in the Okanagan Valley. Tantalus continues to set the benchmark, but nearby CedarCreek, Martin's Lane, and Sperling are showing that it’s not a coincidence. Riesling isn't simply surviving here – it's thriving.
-GM
Tasting Note
This shows the energy and tension offered by truly old vines. You can almost hear a crack of lightning as you open the bottle. It's exceptionally well balanced, with a dry, mouthwatering finish that leaves you with goosebumps. And it tastes like it could only come from East Kelowna. It's just as much about the fresh, pure citrus fruit, as it is the precise, chiselled texture, which is laden with wet stones. It manages to be ethereal yet densely concentrated, with eons of time on its side. You can see why the winery ages this for two years ahead of its release, as it's just starting to unwind now.
Food Pairing
Oysters on the half shell or scallop crudo