September 2022

: Viña Cubillo wines, historically labeled "Special Harvest," originate from the vineyard Viña Cubillas. Sitting at an altitude of 410m, with vines averaging 40 years old, these are no ordinary crianza wines. With their exceptional terroir and extended maturation, they could easily pass as Gran Reservas.

: The story of López de Heredia and Rioja begins in the mid-nineteenth century, ironically emerging from French negociants' search for quality grapes during the phylloxera epidemic. Construction began around 1877, giving rise to the iconic bodega—Haro's oldest and one of Rioja's icon producers.

This is a classic, traditionally styled red Rioja. Gran Riserva's may sit at the top of the hierarchy, but I love crianzas for their balance of fresh fruit and tertiary bottle development. This shows a combination of juicy strawberry and ripe red plum alongside leather and tobacco that's framed by dill and coconut from aging in American oak. There's a fantastic freshness here, which will allow this to slowly evolve in bottle over the next 10+ years. But the tannins are already nicely resolved, so it's hard not to pull the cork now. R. Lopez de Heredia has done it again.

R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia 2016 Vina Cubillo Crianza

Grandson of the esteemed Jean Collet and successor to his father Gilles at the tender age of 21, Romain embarked on a journey of innovation within the cellar and vineyard in just a few short years. Experimenting with natural yeast fermentations and adopting organic and biodynamic farming practices, he soon began to demonstrate remarkable progress from one vintage to the next.

With all of the grapes grown on Kimmeridgian limestone marl bedrock and clay topsoil, Romain skillfully produces wines with a distinctive mineral character that beautifully reflects their terroir.

Steamed mussels with white wine broth and fries

 You asked and we delivered: another Chablis. This is grown on Chablis' classic Jurassic limestone soils from the Kimmeridgian and Portlandian eras.

In recent years, this domaine’s reputation has increased with Jean Collet’s grandson, Romain Collet, taking on a more direct hand in winemaking and converting the estate to organics.

This Chablis shows real elegance and vibrancy. White peach and pear flavours intertwine with bright citrus notes, all gracefully underpinned by subtle mineral nuances. Aged in stainless steel for 11 months without lees stirring, it exemplifies the timeless charm of classic Chablis.

Jean Collet 2021 Chablis

Diane Fox and Tyson Archer – Fox & Archer – make a minuscule amount of wine in their garage, but volume isn’t everything. Last year, we featured their delicious 2019 Malbec in our inaugural BC club shipment. Mike and I recently tasted through their latest releases, and it was clear we needed to feature them again. 

The new Malbec, from the exceptional 2020 vintage, is seriously good and easily ranks as one of the top Malbecs in the province. But this time around we wanted to feature one of their Pinot Noirs. They are Pinot Noir specialists, after all. 

The Mountain Pinot Noir is sourced from Fox Vineyard, situated at 600 metres above sea level on the Naramata Bench. Diane and Tyson work with two steeply-sloping blocks at the top of the vineyard, which is what gives this wine a real mountain character with exceptional intensity and structure. It's a pure expression of Naramata Pinot Noir, without the heartbreak price tag.

Thick-cut, charcoal-grilled pork chops with cherry sauce

Diane Fox and Tyson Archer make a minuscule amount of wine in their garage, but volume isn’t everything. We tasted through their latest releases a few months ago, and this Pinot Noir was a standout. Don’t worry: the Malbec is still seriously good, too.

Sourced from Fox Vineyard, situated at 600 metres above sea level on the Naramata Bench, Diane and Tyson work with two steeply-sloping blocks at the top of the vineyard, which is what gives this wine a real mountain character with exceptional intensity and structure.

This shows the balanced ripeness of the 2020 vintage, with a combination of dark cherries and chocolate-dipped wild strawberries alongside cola spices and dried roses. This has the depth of fruit to effortlessly carry the 40% new French oak, which is firmly in the background, keeping the focus on the Naramata terroir. Supple and polished, this is ready to enjoy now but will improve over the next 3-4 years with careful cellaring.

Fox & Archer 2020 Mountain Pinot Noir

Pénélope Roche grew up in Pessac-Leognan on her family’s estate, while Vancouver-native Dylan Roche worked his way through Pauillac and Margaux. Their connection with Bordeaux is clearly felt here. 

They moved to the Okanagan in 2011, and shortly afterwards started Roche as a small virtual label. Since then, they have opened their own winery and tasting room on Upper Bench Road, minutes from Penticton. The wines have a distinct point of view and – no surprise – they have a magic touch with Bordeaux varieties.

This wine is typically only available to Roche wine club members, so we were thrilled to be able to secure a few cases for the Naramata General Store.

Classic Sunday beef roast with all the fixings

Pénélope Roche grew up in Pessac-Leognan on her family’s estate, while Vancouver-native Dylan Roche worked his way through Pauillac and Margaux. Their connection with Bordeaux is clearly felt here.

This vintage is predominantly Merlot, which is sourced from the gravel and granite soils of Kozier Vineyard on the Naramata Bench. There’s a stony minerality that underpins this wine, which supports the fresh, expressive fruit.

This vintage is predominantly Merlot (54%), which is sourced from the gravel and granite soils of Kozier Vineyard on the Naramata Bench, along with Cabernet Sauvignon (24%) and Cabernet Franc (22%) from the South Okanagan. There’s a stony minerality that underpins this wine, which supports the fresh, expressive fruit. Expect juicy wild berries and dark plums that are layered with fresh herbs and cedar. Nuances is right: this is an elegant Bordeaux blend that will gracefully age over the next 10 years.

Roche 2019 Nuances

Wines grown on volcanic soils are unique and distinctive. It's arguably the only soil type that really comes through in the finished wine, with a characteristic smoky quality that is identifiable regardless of the region or grape variety.

Volcanic wines have been white hot – pun intended – since John Szabo MS published his 

 on the topic 7 years ago. That's helped to put the volcanic Canary Islands on the world stage, led by producers like Envinate (who we featured in last September's shipment) as well as Vinatigo.  

Since 1990, Juan Jesús Méndez has been the driving force of Viñátigo and the Canary Islands by recovering indigenous grapes on the verge of extinction and mapping the diverse soil types found across the Canaries.

Listan Negro is a black grape variety unique to these volcanic islands. It produces red wines that are Syrah-like in character, though this rosé speaks more to place than any grape variety. It’s bright and refreshing, with a distinctive volcanic minerality. Expect sappy red berries, fresh herbs, and – yes – smoke. But the smoke-like quality here is related to sulphide compounds – not smoke taint from wildfires – and adds an appealing savoury complexity that enhances the fruit.

Vinatigo 2021 Rosado de Listan Negro

For many years, Lebanonese wine seemed to be synonymous with Chateau Musar, an iconic producer renowned for savoury, long-lived wines. But the breadth of Lebanon wine is just starting to be noticed on BC shelves, spearheaded by some of the province's leading wine importers. 

These wines are a fun discovery for curious wine geeks, but they're anything but new. Grape vines were first planted in the Bekaa Valley, Lebanon's predominant grape-growing region, over 6,000 years ago. Domaine des Tourelles is comparatively young in that context, founded 150 years ago by Francois-Eugene Brun in the town of Chtaura, halfway between Beirut and Damascus.

 started bringing in the wines late last year. I was immediately impressed by the quality – and distinctiveness - of the wines, especially the Red. The wines are made by Chateau Margaux-trained winemaker Faouzi Issa, one of the region’s rising stars. But the wines stay true to the Bekka Valley, using both Bordeaux and Rhône varieties that are well-suited to their unique terroir.

Grape vines were first planted in the Bekaa Valley over 6,000 years ago. Domaine des Tourelles is comparatively young in that context, founded 150 years ago by Francois-Eugene Brun in the town of Chtaura, halfway between Beirut and Damascus.

Today, the wines are made by Chateau Margaux-trained winemaker Faouzi Issa, one of the region’s rising stars. The wines stay true to the Bekka Valley, though. This Red is a blend of dry-farmed Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, and Cinsault from 20-year-old vines planted at 1,000 metres in elevation.

This Red is a blend of dry-farmed Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, and Cinsault from 20-year-old vines planted at 1,000 metres in elevation. There's a lovely combination of fruit and savoury complexity, with remarkable freshness thanks to the high elevation. Sun-soaked dark cherry and black raspberry fruit is accented by leather and game notes, with no shortage of complexity. The wine continues to evolve in the glass over an hour or two, and it will no doubt improve with another 4-5 years in bottle. An impressive, distinct wine – and an absolute steal at this price.   

Domaine des Tourelles 2020 Red

It’s easy to forget that Bordeaux is much more than its famous first growths. The caricature is expensive wines produced in lavish chateaux that are increasingly for the 1 percent. That turned off sommeliers and nearly 

Bordeaux itself deserves the lion's share of the blame, chasing fad markets and not connecting with its consumers. There was a feeling that Bordeaux was 

. Farmers wearing suits can give that impression. But Bordeaux is a large region, and the stereotypes and generalizations swept soulful, passionate estates under the rug.

Wines like the D de Dauzac show a different side of the region. The first written record of Château Dauzac dates to the 16th century and it has played a pivotal role in some of the most important chapters of Bordeaux’s winemaking history. The estate worked alongside the University of Bordeaux to develop a treatment for downy mildew, which decimated Bordeaux vineyards in the mid-19th century. They were also the first to introduce temperature control to their tanks. Coincidentally (or not), the estate was owned by an ice maker at the time.

Bordeaux is known for powerful, tannic reds that tend to only be approachable after decades in bottle. The D de Dauzac is something completely different. It offers immediate charm and appeal, unencumbered by oak. It's bright, juicy, and medium-bodied, with fresh red cherry and currant fruit that's lifted by freshly chopped herbs. Drinking beautifully at seven years of age, the tannins are soft and resolved, though this can still hold for another 2-3 years.

D de Dauzac 2016 Margaux

Monks are interwoven with the history of wine. Look no further than Abbazia Di Novacella. It's one of the oldest active wineries, founded in 1182. Then, like now, it was a Monastery. But it’s forward-looking, too. It was carbon neutral back in 1992. It's also looked beyond the grape varieties that are commonly associated with Alto Adige. 

Today, just 66 acres in Alto Adige are planted to Grüner Veltliner, largely in the Isarco Valley where Abbazia Di Novacella is located. That means Grüner accounts for only 0.5% of total plantings. We think you'll see the potential in this bottle.

This is complex, pure, and precise, with vibrant citrus fruit that's accented by subtle orchard blossoms, white pepper, and fresh herbs. It shows excellent varietal character, and the winemaking puts the focus squarely on the fruit. It's predominantly aged in stainless steel, with partial use of large oak casks for added texture. The palate is mineral-driven and saline, with crisp acidity that beautifully balances the ripe stone fruit finish. 

Abbazia Di Novacella 2020 Gruner Veltliner

This was the wine that almost didn't make it. We placed our order before the strike impacting the BCLDB, but it didn't arrive on the last shipment. We started making alternate plans. Fortunately, it never came to that. 

Four friends, all studying winemaking at university, banded together to start Envinate. Today, they are leading a new frontier of Spanish wine by embracing what’s been forgotten: overlooked regions and varieties combined with traditional winemaking techniques that shy away from overextraction or excessive oak. 

Castilla-La Mancha was known for producing an ocean of simple, inexpensive red wines. That’s changing thanks to wines like Albahra, which translates as "a small sea." It is sourced from old vines planted at altitude in the small sub-region of Almansa, just two hours from the coastal town of Valencia. A blend of 75% Garnacha Tintorea, a red-fleshed variety also known as Alicante Bouschet, and 25% Moravia Agria, a variety on the verge of extinction with just 500 acres remaining, this wine truly speaks to the ethos of Envinate. It's a compelling new vision for Spanish wine, and more than that: it's just outrageously good.

Garlic rosemary lamb chops or grilled chorizo

This compelling, juicy red shows exceptional purity of fruit, with sappy wild berries that are joined by spicy herbs and soft spices, in part from the use of some whole clusters during fermentation. It's precise and finely textured, benefiting from aging in concrete, with a supple, moreish quality that makes it effortlessly drinkable. Enjoy this with a light chill.

Envinate 2020 Albahra

Verdicchio di Matelica is located in the foothills of the Apennine Mountains, about an hour from the Adriatic Sea, in the Marche. It's always convenient when the name of the grape variety is in the appellation name, and even better when there's an opportunity for Metallica puns. 

For me, Verdicchio is stylistically like a dry Riesling: crisp and citrusy with a delicate floral lift. Verdicchio di Matelica is arguably lesser known than the neighbouring Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi appellation, but the former's high elevation produces crisper expressions of Verdicchio with more depth. They're just as versatile at the dinner table as they are ageworthy. 

Eric Hemer – one of three people to hold both the MW and MS titles – said it best recently over dinner: "I just can't get enough of dry, citrusy, saline white wines like Verdicchio."

Verdicchio takes you to the sea and is a natural pairing with delicate white fish like the Adriatic monkfish. But a traditional pairing is the local version of lasagna, 

, with its rich, offal-based meat sauce. Think chicken giblets and sweetbreads.

Verdicchio di Matelica, located in the foothills of the Apennine Mountains about an hour from the coastline of the Adriatic Sea, produces crisp, citrusy, saline wines with a delicate floral lift. Think along the lines of a dry Riesling.

This complex, elegant Verdicchio Di Matelica shows a combination of bright lemon and green apple, lifted by fragrant apple blossoms and accented by almond and delicate fresh herbs. Aged in stainless steel for four months, the focus is squarely on the fruit, with a linear, precise palate that's marked by a crisp, saline finish. Certified organic.

Borgo Paglianetto 2021 Terravignata Verdicchio Di Matelica

Dolcetto is much like Gamay: it’s a wine for 

. It’s what you’ll find on the table on a Tuesday night in Langhe. But this wine shows just how serious it can be given meticulous winemaking and vines that date up to 70 years old.

It's the wine that started it all for Domenico Clerico, who sadly passed away in 2017. He started with just three hectares of Dolcetto in 1978 before expanding across Piemonte, becoming one of the giants of Barolo. While the top wines sell for over $200, this Dolcetto shows that you can still find exceptional value within the portfolio. Today, the winery continues under the guidance of the Clerico family and winemaker Oscar Arrivabene.  

A traditional Piemontese pairing is Tajarin Al Ragu Alla Langarola, an egg pasta with a rich meat sauce. It's also a natural pairing with charcuterie like salami or bresaola.

This is the wine that started it all for Domenico Clerico, who sadly passed away in 2017. He started with just three hectares of Dolcetto in 1978 before expanding across Piemonte, becoming one of the giants of Barolo.

Dolcetto commonly produces deeply coloured red wines, and this is no exception. It pours a deep purple-hued ruby, offering fresh, juicy red cherries and blackberries, with a real purity to the fruit. Subtle notes of violets and anise add depth and frame the generous fruit, leading to a well-balanced, medium-bodied palate with polished, fine-grained tannins that speak to the quality of the winemaking. A top example of Dolcetto, to be sure.

Domenico Clerico 2019 Visadi Dolcetto

Dolcetto is originally from the Piedmont region of northwest Italy, and translates to "little sweet one." It's a rarity in British Columbia, and Moon Curser is one of only two wineries to produce a single-varietal expression. But year after year they prove Dolcetto is right at home in the Okanagan, too.

Honouring the traditional way of making Dolcetto in Piedmont, it’s made fresh and juicy without any oak influence, putting the focus on the fruit. Dolcetto is typically best enjoyed in its youth – in Piedmont, it's the Tuesday night wine while your Barolos and Barbarescos are tucked away in the cellar –  and served with a light chill. Tossing it in your fridge for twenty minutes before serving will do the trick.

This is one of the only Dolcettos found in the Okanagan. It's a juicy expression of the grape, remaining true to its Italian origins, with vibrant flavours of wild berries and pomegranate.

 Moon Curser's focus is on rare and unusual grape varieties not widely planted in the Okanagan – let alone on the Osoyoos East Bench. 

It’s bursting with juicy wild berries and pomegranate mingled with roasted tomatoes and delicate herbal notes, all framed by vibrant freshness and supple, yet well structured tannins.

Moon Curser 2022 Dolcetto

Andeluna Cellars, steeped in history and romance, draws inspiration from the Argentine moon illuminating the majestic Andes Mountains that grace the Uco Valley, Mendoza.

Uco Valley, thanks to its high altitude and well-draining soils, has emerged as a highly promising sub-region in Mendoza. Here, robust vines yield low quantities of top-quality grapes, resulting in full-bodied wines characterised by vibrant acidity and floral notes.

Vegetarian kebab, grilled beef ribs, or blue cheese burger

This is sourced from a single vineyard in the Uco Valley, arguably the top sub-region of Mendoza, which sits at 1,300 metres above sea level. Get the name now?  

 A classic, high-elevation Malbec that shows floral notes of violets alongside intense blackberry fruit, with a plush, mineral-laden palate. 

Showing an intense purple hue, this Malbec reveals dark plum and bramble fruit layered with violet florals and subtle notes of nutmeg and clove spices. The plush, mineral-laden palate is well-structured, with a balance of fresh acidity and youthful tannins.

Andeluna 2021 1300 Malbec

Winemaker Richard Charnock has a way with Chardonnay, after working at some of the top Burgundian producers across Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and South Africa. 

Surely we're past the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement. But this wine shows that unoaked Chardonnay can be serious in its own right.

JoieFarm 2022 Unoaked Chardonnay

LaStella interprets the Okanagan through an Italian lens. In the wrong hands, it could feel contrived. But LaStella never loses its sense of place thanks to the thoughtful winegrowing of Severine Pinte. Fortissimo is a different take on the Super Tuscan, with a 6-percent splash of Sangiovese adding savoury complexity to this Merlot-dominant blend. Pour it next to the Modest Wines Sangiovese for an interesting comparison.

Fortissimo is a different take on the Super Tuscan, with a 6-percent splash of Sangiovese adding savoury complexity to this Merlot-dominant blend.

LaStella interprets the Okanagan through an Italian lens. In the wrong hands, it could feel contrived. But LaStella never loses its sense of place thanks to the thoughtful winegrowing of Severine Pinte.

From the exceptional 2020 vintage, this iteration is a blend of 63% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Sangiovese from the Black Sage Bench and Osoyoos. There's a beautiful combination of expressive fruit, led by dark cherry, alongside savoury notes of tobacco, sandalwood, and desert sage. Like you'd expect from a Super Tuscan, this is firmly structured, with the potential to develop gracefully in bottle over the next 5-7 years. If you don't have the patience, and we don't blame you, pair with a hearty protein and decant for 1-2 hours.

LaStella Winery 2020 Fortissimo

I bought my first six-pack from Kevin Rossion, winemaker and partner at Plot Wines, several years ago. The wines immediately impressed me with their transparency and poise. Kevin shies away from the “natural wine” label, but his approach is certainly less-is-more. He's a viticulturist, first and foremost, and that informs his winemaking, putting the emphasis squarely on the fruit.

Plot is a relatively new endeavour for Kevin – or side hustle, as he calls it. In 2018, he started the label with two friends, who oversee the sales and marketing. In an era of multi-million-dollar wineries in the Okanagan, with multi being a slight understatement, it’s reassuring – and important – that a group of friends can still start a small wine label that’s true to who they are and the type of wines they want to drink.

One of the standouts in Plot's portfolio is their 2019 Merlot. It’s light, juicy, and moreish, far from what you typically expect from Okanagan Merlot. In part, that’s because of the vineyards, or 

 (get it?), that Kevin has selected. Two of the vineyards are located in Kaleden, just 15 minutes south of Penticton. This cooler climate, moderated by Skaha Lake and shielded from the afternoon sun by the Wild Horse Mountains, gives this wine its bright, expressive fruit. Sappy brambles and wild blueberry are lifted by fresh violets, with a deft touch of oak (20% new) adding complexity without overshadowing the fruit. It's a distinct, modern take on Okanagan Merlot that leaves you wanting a second glass. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Plot Wines 2019 Merlot

Echo Bay, a serene lakefront property acquired in 1967, has evolved from a family hobby farm into a family-owned winery led by the Rufiange family. Located on an idyllic eighteen-acre plot along Skaha Lake, it is the region's only lakeside winery, benefiting from a unique microclimate shaped by surrounding rock formations.

In 2013, with no prior wine industry experience, the Rufiange family sought expertise from Richard Cleave, a BC wine industry pioneer, and with a thorough analysis of the land and under Dick’s guidance, they decided to plant Bordeaux red varieties. Echo Bay's south-west-facing slopes with silty loam and glacial gravel deposits ensure ideal sun exposure for these later-ripening varieties.

At Echo Bay, land stewardship is paramount. The Rufiange family is deeply connected to their vineyard, practising hands-on, holistic farming to prioritise biodiversity and self-sustainability. They refrain from synthetic inputs, focusing on soil health using cover crops, plant ferments, compost, and innovative techniques such as biochar – all produced on-site.

The Synoptic is a flagship blend that reveals components that best represent the season in the vineyard. A blend of Cabernet Franc (44%), Merlot (35%), Cabernet Sauvignon (9%), Carménère (6%) and Petit Verdot (6%), 2020 Synoptic was fermented with wild yeasts and aged for 17 months in French oak (22% new). Bottled unfined and unfiltered.

After a thorough soil analysis, it is clear that red Bordeaux varieties –– Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Carménère, Petite Verdot –– are destined to thrive on the west facing slopes of the vineyard’s silty loam and gravels.

The Synoptic is a flagship blend that reveals components that best represent the season in the vineyard.

This red blend opens with an array of bright red fruits, including cherry, redcurrant, raspberry, and wild strawberry, intertwined with fresh herbs and subtle mineral notes reminiscent of graphite and gravel. Fresh and pure, the palate exhibits lovely vibrancy wrapped in fine-grained tannins while still showing excellent fruit concentration.

Echo Bay 2020 Synoptic

Located in the Veneto of northeast Italy, overlooking Lake Garda to the west of Valpolicella, Bardolino Classico makes a similar style of reds to Valpolicella – light, fruity, and juicy.

Cantine Delibori may produce wines from across the Veneto including Valpolicella and Amarone, but its heart is in Bardolino. Family-owned and founded in 1971, Cantine Delibori's headquarters are at Calmasino, in the heart of the Bardolino Classico zone.

The soil, largely morainic and partly fluvioglacial, is stony and calcareous, shaped by the Adige Valley glacier. Lake Garda significantly influences the climate, resulting in mild winters and temperate summers. A perfect blend of soil and climate for producing fruit-forward wines.

Olive oil roasted vegetable antipastos or Margherita pizza with fresh mozzarella

 Bardolino Classico is located in the Veneto of northeast Italy, overlooking Lake Garda to the west of Valpolicella. Like Valpolicella DOC, it is a light, juicy red wine made predominantly from Corvina and Rondinella. This has a small percentage of Corvinone, too.

Cantine Delibori may produce wines from across the Veneto, but its heart is in Bardolino. The family-owned winery was founded in 1971, not far from Lake Garda.

Made predominantly from Corvina and Rondinella, it’s a fruity, juicy red wine full of red berries – think strawberries, raspberries, and Marasca cherries. Yet, there’s some black pepper spiciness which adds intrigue and complexity. With gentle, approachable tannins, it's best served lightly chilled.

Cantine Delibori 2021 Bardolino Classico

Family vintners for over 100 years, the Catenas are recognized for their pioneering role in exploring the limits of viticulture at extreme heights in Argentina. In the 1980s, Nicolás Catena Zapata planted vines where he was told that wine grapes would never ripen. His vision has revolutionised Argentine wine, positioning it among the best in the world.

The Luján de Cuyo Appellation, situated 950 meters above sea level, is known for its clay-rich soils and very cool nights, which contribute to the development of deeply aromatic wines. This blend of Semillon and Chenin Blanc represents Argentina’s century-old traditional white wine.

Whole-roasted chicken with lemon or pan-seared scallops

Vintners for over 100 years, the Catenas are recognized for their pioneering role in exploring the limits of viticulture at extreme heights in Argentina, planting vines where they were told grapes would never ripen.

 This blend of Semillon and Chenin Blanc represents Argentina’s century-old traditional white wine, sourced from the Luján de Cuyo appellation. Situated 950 metres above sea level, it’s known for its clay-rich soils and cool nights, contributing to the development of deeply aromatic wines.

A 60/40 blend of sémillon and chenin blanc from Luján de Cuyo (950m elevation), this seamlessly combines both varieties with an attractive nose of honeyed white peach, lemon, and lanolin. The palate is precise and textured, with concentration that is above the norm, leading to a balanced, chalky finish. A distinctive wine, and a worthwhile discovery.

Catena 2022 White Clay

I was first introduced to Mullineux back in college. Christopher Waters, now the wine writer for the Globe & Mail, poured their 2008 Swartland Syrah in a class on South African wines. It was maybe the first time that I left the classroom and immediately went to the LCBO. That bottle was everything that I've come to appreciate in their wines: transparent, elegant, and pure. And somehow only $32 at the time.

Mullineux has since become one of the most celebrated wineries in South Africa, and their Kloof Street label makes a great entry point. Part of their success is owed to Andrea Mullineux, winemaker and partner. She's widely regarded as one of the world's top winemakers and has the accolades to prove it. But another key is their uncanny ability to find overlooked parcels of old vines.

That's what took them to Swartland in the first place. Low-yielding old bush vines, often dry-farmed, that still had a story to tell. This Chenin Blanc comes from three vineyards that are 38 to 40+ years old on a combination of shale, shist, and granite soils. Otherwise, the only winemaking addition is a tiny amount of sulphur dioxide. Transparent, indeed.

Chenin Blanc is South Africa's so-called signature white variety, and stylistically it can be quite varied. Sometimes it's ripe and tropical, with heavy-handed oak. And then you have this, a pure expression of both grape and place. The fruit is precise and detailed, showing quince and honeyed white peach, along with savoury spices, delicate orchard blossoms, and a stony minerality. It's amazing how this evolves and unfurls in the glass, showing tremendous poise and depth, with a vervy energy that continually pulls you back in.   

Kloof Street 2020 Chenin Blanc

Coolshanagh may make a few barrels of Pinot Noir, but the focus here is really Chardonnay. For good reason. When the internationally renowned soil specialist Pedro Parra visited the Naramata estate several years ago, he saw the potential for greatness.

This part of the Naramata Bench has silt, clay, and limestone soils that draw comparisons to Meursault in Burgundy. But realizing that potential doesn't happen overnight. Owners Skip and Judy are doing the right things in the vineyard – slowly, thoughtfully. It starts with a move to organic farming.

This was fermented in a combination of French oak barriques and concrete and then aged for 17 months on gross lees. Think gross as in large, not ew. It ages on the solids of grape skins and spent yeast cells, which gives this wine its richness, texture, and complexity. It shows a combination of citrus and ripe stone fruits, with a touch of toasted hazelnut and flint. Okanagan wines are often released too early and we drink them too young. At four years-old, this wine hints at why sometimes we need to be more patient.

Coolshanagh 2018 Reserve Chardonnay

For this shipment, we wanted to take you on a tour around British Columbia. This wine brings you to the northern reaches of winegrowing in the province, to Kamloops and the Thompson Valley. 

It’s a short, continental growing season, which means there’s a limited window for ripening fruit. It makes it ideally suited to earlier ripening varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It also means there are significant diurnal shifts, or differences in temperature between the day and night. For most people, it means putting a sweater on as the sun sets on the patio. For grapes, it helps to preserve acidity, and it's what gives these wines their distinctive freshness. Oh, and there just so happens to be a swath of limestone, which will excite any Burgundy fan. 

Monte Creek was another winery – like Fox & Archer from our June shipment – that turned my head at the National Wine Awards of Canada. And it wasn’t just me. The 2019 Ancient Waters Chardonnay won a platinum medal, the top honour at the competition. This wine, stylistically, is a new look for Monte Creek, which matches the elegant new label and the extensive expansions at the winery, both in the tasting room and cellar. And it feels like the best is still to come. 

It's easy to see why this won over a room of wine critics. It's flinty and reductive, a style that's both trendy and timeless. What does that mean exactly? It’s not the same as minerality, or chalk or salinity. The closest comparison, at least for me, is the smell of a struck match. Admittedly, that sounds a bit weird, but it adds something compelling to Chardonnay.

Chardonnay is shy on its own, so it needs some help from the winemaker to build complexity. In the past, that was oak – and lots of it. Today, winemakers are using lees, and reductive winemaking, to add depth while still retaining the purity of fruit. And this is the perfect example. The bright, zesty citrus fruit speaks to Monte Creek's Thompson Valley terroir, with added texture from aging in a combination of concrete eggs and seasons barrels. And, of course, that added flinty complexity.

Monte Creek 2019 Ancient Waters Chardonnay

I'm really excited that we had the opportunity to include this wine in the September club shipment. I visited Jerez almost a year ago, and one of the revelations for me were the 

– or dry, unfortified white wines. Don't get me wrong: I love sherry. But 

are a beautiful expression both of the terroir and tradition of Jerez.

The tradition part is important. This isn't a response to the declining interest in sherry – or fortified wines, more generally for that matter. 

 has been produced for centuries in Jerez. It translates to "pasture wine," and was traditionally a simple table wine to consume with food. 

However, a new wave of Spanish winemakers are taking 

to new heights. Callejuela is one such producer. This was one of the top 

that I tasted in Jerez. It's sourced from Macharnudo, widely recognized as a "Grand Cru" calibre vineyard in Jerez thanks to its classic chalky 

There are some similarities to sherry, mind you. The most obvious is the grape variety, Palomino. It's generally regarded as a neutral grape variety that gains its character through the solera process of making sherry. But this wine shows its much more than that, with a Chablis-like precision and minerality. It's also aged under flor for four months – much shorter than the 3+ years typically seen for fino sherry, but enough to give the wine its subtle herbaceous complexity.

For those adventurous enough to try it, I really hope you enjoy it. I would love your thoughts; you can reach me at 

. Hopefully this is just the first of many 

Chipirones, or fried baby squid. Calamari with a generous squeeze of lemon will also do the trick.

Jerez has become much more than just Sherry. Traditional 

or dry, unfortified white wines – have undergone a renaissance, led by top producers like Callejuela.  

 comes from Macharnudo, widely recognized as the top vineyard in Jerez thanks to its classic chalky 

soils. It's aged under flor for four months, giving the wine its herbaceous complexity.

There's a real purity and precision to this 

. The fruit is bright and expressive, with a combination of ripe lemon and crunchy green apple that is beautifully accented by fresh herbs and sourdough. It leads to a saline, textured finish, with a tangy acidity that belies the warmth of southern Spain. A terroir-driven wine that is singular and distinctive in the world of wine.

Callejuela 2021 La Choza de Macharnudo

Founded by the viticulturist and winemaker couple, Graham and Lyndsay O’Rourke, Tightrope is dedicated to crafting exceptional wines that mirror the unique terroir of Naramata and embody their Life-in-Balance philosophy. As the first certified members of Sustainable Winegrowing BC, sustainability is a cornerstone in their practices, both in the vineyards and the winery, ensuring a healthy environment for their family for generations.

Pan-seared Scallops with Celeriac Remoulade

 This Semillon's cool, month-long fermentation keeps it vibrant and fresh with zesty lemon and grapefruit that's lifted by white florals and a hint of fresh herbs.  

 Graham & Lyndsay, the powerful viticulturist and winemaker couple behind Tightrope Winery, gracefully lead the way as the first certified members of Sustainable Winegrowing BC. Their Life-in-Balance philosophy transforms tightropes into paths, vineyards into stories, and sustainability into the rhythm they live by.

With a balanced and thoughtful approach, Tightrope walks the delicate line between tradition and innovation as exemplified by this Semillon. It underwent whole-cluster pressing and fermentation at a cool temperature for over a month in stainless steel, where it rested on lees until bottling. The result is a vibrant and fresh wine with zesty lemon and grapefruit, complemented by florals and fresh herbs. Ready to be enjoyed now, yet the taut acidity suggests this will age gracefully over the next 3-4 years.

Tightrope 2022 Thomas Vineyard Semillon

Watch our full interview with winemaker Andrea Barker:

This Pinot Noir rosé pours a stunning pale pink thanks to three hours of skin contact, with fruit sourced from Naramata, Summerland, and Lake Country. It's delicate and fresh, showing a combination of citrus and soft red berries, along with a touch of spice. Dry, crisp, and refreshing, this is a serious rosé with thoughtful winemaking. And it's still crushable. Rosé has to be crushable. 

Foxly 2021 Rosé

There's no question that Malbec is the signature grape variety for Mendoza, if not Argentina. (Sorry, Torrentes.) Mendoza has about three times as much Malbec planted as Cabernet Sauvignon, and plantings continue to increase. There's something distinctive about the Cabernet Sauvignon, though – especially when it's planted on the right sites.

This single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Paraje Altamira in the Uco Valley, a distinctive, high-elevation sub-region marked by stony, granitic soils layered with limestone. At over 1,200 metres above sea level, the fruit is dense and richly concentrated, with a pronounced stony minerality. Wild fermented with partial use of stems – unusual for Cabernet Sauvignon – this confidently Mendoza through-and-through.  

Fun fact: this wine climbed to #73 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list in 2021. (Yes, we still read Wine Spectator.) It’s why Tim Atkin MW calls Zaha an “Argentine first growth.”

Well, if we're talking about Argentina, we have to talk about grilled meat. Think thick, richly marbled ribeye or a rack of lamb.

This single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Paraje Altamira in the Uco Valley, a distinctive, high-elevation sub-region marked by stony, granitic soils layered with limestone.

Sitting at over 4,000 feet above sea level, this wine climbed to #73 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list in 2021. (Yes, we still read Wine Spectator.) It’s why Tim Atkin MW calls Zaha an “Argentine first growth.”

This shows a ripe, brambly nose of blackberries and wild blueberries along with fresh sweet herbs, dried florals, graphite, and chocolatey oak from aging 14 months in French barriques. Medium-full-bodied, this shows impressive intensity and concentration, backed by balancing freshness, with dense, suave tannins that speak to the high-elevation mountain fruit.

Zaha 2018 Toko Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

: Cannonball is a bold testament to California's diverse microclimates and soils, from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles, that capture the soul of the state.

: Founded in 2006 with a single variety, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cannonball aimed to create unpretentious wines for sharing. Now, with four varietal wines under the label, they continue to deliver outstanding value.

This is pure, full-throttle California Cabernet, with bold dark fruits – blackberry, blueberry, and cassis – that are layered with sweet oak spices and chocolate. It's rich and suave, with a fruit weight that belies the relatively modest price tag – at least for California. Fire up the grill. 

Cannonball 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon

 Monemvasia Winery is named after a towering 300-metre high rock off the Peloponnese coast. This natural fortress, linked to the shore by a single bridge, perfectly embodies its name, meaning 'only entrance.' 



 Meet Kydonitsa, a rare, ancient Greek variety that means 'little quince.' True to its name, it delivers quince and delicate floral notes, giving it a Viognier-like quality. 

This refreshing Kydonitsa offers fresh apricot, quince, and orange blossom, with added texture from aging on its lees for six months. There's a pithiness to the palate, balanced by excellent fruit concentration, that adds complexity, leading to a clean, crisp finish.

Monemvasia 2021 Kydonitsa

Winemaker Will Hardman is part of the fourth generation to farm the family’s Naramata property. In 2003, it was his father, Bryan Hardman, who made the decision to transition from growing apples to cultivating grapes. Initially selling fruit to wineries while focusing on in-demand varieties, Will’s growing interest in the wine industry shifted the course, leading the family to embrace winemaking. Their 19-acre estate now produces exceptional wines, with their top five scoring highest in the National Wine Awards of Canada among wineries producing 10,000 cases or fewer, earning them the title of Best Performing Small Winery in 2023.

Gamay requires careful crop management to achieve optimal ripeness. The Hardman Vineyard, situated on a southwest-facing slope overlooking the lake, benefits from sunlight reflected off the water, ensuring even ripening of the grapes. To maintain balance and maximize fruit quality, the vines are heavily thinned, reducing the crop load and allowing the fruit to reach full ripeness.

 The Hardman family on the Naramata Bench transitioned from growing apples to cultivating grapes in 2003. Their 19-acre estate now produces exceptional wines, with their top five scoring highest in the National Wine Awards of Canada among wineries producing 10,000 cases or fewer, earning them the title of Best Performing Small Winery in 2023.

 Gamay requires a balanced crop to reach optimal ripeness. The Hardman Vineyard, situated on a southwest-facing slope overlooking the lake, benefits from intense sunlight reflected off the water, ensuring the grapes ripen fully.

The grapes were destemmed and cold-soaked for 6 days before undergoing a 9-day fermentation. The wine was then pressed into older barrels, where it aged for 8 months. On the palate, flavors of juicy blackberry, cherry, and cracked pepper are cut with a slice of VA on the palate, tightening and shortening the palate to a puckering finish. Tannins are lightly sticky, hugging this along to the end.

Deep Roots 2022 Reserve Gamay Noir

 The Wine Umbrella is a project by Mireille Sauvé, a renowned BC winemaker and consultant. Each year, she creates a special wine, with proceeds benefiting Le Dames d'Escoffier BC to support women in hospitality.

A co-ferment of Syrah (91%) and Viognier (9%) from old vines at the southernmost edge of the Golden Mile Bench sub-appellation. It showcases a classic, peppery Northern Rhône style, with a dense, almost lush character.

The Wine Umbrella 2020 Co-Syrah

Rust Winemaker Ryan de Witte bottled four different Syrahs from the 2020 vintage, taking us on an exploration of the Okanagan and Similkameen. Located on the northern edge of the Black Sage Bench in Oliver, Ferreira Vineyard was planted in 2002 on deep sandy soils. The west-facing aspect means the vineyard banks in more sunlight than any other region in the country – and even Napa for that matter.

As a result, the Syrah from this site shows opulent fruit ripeness, with less of the peppery spice found in cooler Okanagan sub-GIs. The addition of 25% whole-cluster during fermentation reinforces the structure and introduces some of those missing spice notes. The wine is then aged in French and Hungarian oak for 18 months, with 33% of it being new oak.

Rust Winemaker Ryan de Witte bottled four different Syrahs from the 2020 vintage, taking us on an exploration of the Okanagan and Similkameen. The yellow wax leads to the sandy soils of Ferreira Vineyard on the northern tip of the Black Sage Bench, which was planted in 2002.

 Syrah basks in the afternoon sun of the Black Sage Bench, and manages to retain freshness even as the fruit becomes lavishly ripe. This bottling epitomizes everything we love about it.

This Syrah shows with macerated dark plums and wild blueberries accented by dried sage, mint, and white pepper. The 25 percent whole cluster gives this an extra layer of complexity and freshness, thoughtfully complementing the fruit, with the wood nicely tucked in the background. It's a skillful expression of Black Sage Bench Syrah, with suave, refined tannins that make this a joy to drink even at this early stage.

Rust Wine Co 2020 Ferreira Vineyard Syrah

If you've ever driven the Naramata Bench, odds are you saw Moraine. They have a stunning, relatively new winery, smack dab in the middle of the Bench. It wasn't until a year ago that I finally tried the wines, and I wish I had much earlier.

Moraine does a bit of everything. You'll find Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and a number of Bordeaux reds. But the vast majority of the wines come from the Naramata Bench. It makes for a fascinating exploration of the Bench through the lens of a single producer.

Most importantly, the wines are just really good. Consulting winemaker Dwight Sick oversaw the 2020 vintage, and he's produced a line-up of exceptional wines that are true to the Naramata Bench.

The Reserve Pinot Noir is typically reserved for Moraine's club members, but we talked our way into getting a few cases. This wine shows why the 2020 vintage is so exciting. The fruit is concentrated and expressive, showing lively red berries that are complemented by violets, herbs and harmoniously integrated oak. What stands out is the purity of the fruit as well as the supple, fine texture. This is what Naramata Pinot Noir is all about.

Moraine 2020 Reserve Pinot Noir

Sometime around 2014, Provence rosé started to take off. The first vintage of Miraval, the celebrity rosé by Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie (they've since split, you may have heard), was released the year before. By 2016, the production of Whispering Angel had skyrocketed to 4.6 million cases. To put that in context, all BC wineries combined sold just 4.8 million cases around the same time. 

The rest of the wine industry was quick to take notice. All of a sudden, marketing teams were deciding what colour their rosé had to be. And it meant a phase of paler and paler rosés. 

Provence was and is about much more than its colour, though. We showed that in our June shipment with Domaine De Rimauresq. Elsewhere, the focus on colour resulted in blander and blander wines. The flavour in a red grape berry, like its colour, is predominantly in its skin. So, if you extract little colour, you extract little flavour, unless you use specialized winemaking techniques like 

Well, now the pendulum is swinging back – and this Bandol rosé shows why. There’s more depth, more complexity, and more versatility at the dinner table. Leonard Cohen asked if we 

Grilled octopus with fennel or fried zucchini flowers 

The region of Bandol may technically be in Provence but its rosés are something entirely different. Based on Mourvedre, they’re mineral-driven, savoury, and rich, as beautifully exemplified by the organic-certified Domaine de la Begude. It's compelling and complex, offering crushed rocks, tart red berries, orange rind, dried florals, and layers of spice. Even at just 12.5% abv, it's richly textured and concentrated, with the weight to stand up to more robust food pairings. There's also the structure to age another 3-4 years in bottle. Yes, rosé can age, too. 

September 2022

Best of BC

International Gems